50.

Most of you reading already know this, but yesterday was my birthday.  And a rather significant one at that.  The big 5-0.  I'm not sure how that's even possible since I can't yet grow a full beard. 

But according to my mother, it's true.  And all the more fitting to celebrate the event a full 12 hours earlier than normal by virtue of my being in Vietnam instead of at home in Madison. 

First, for those of you who've wished me "Happy Birthday" on Facebook or via email, thank you.  I so appreciate your remembering and sending me a short note.  Xin Cam Un.

The celebration actually started the night before my birthday when, during my nightly Skype call with Craig, I learned that he had actually attempted to surprise me by meeting me in Singapore this weekend!  (I leave tomorrow to spend four days at a conference there).  Unfortunately, the schedule would have given him all of about six hours in the country between midnight and 6am before he'd have to turn back around and head home, so it didn't come to pass.  More than anything, though, the thought that he'd make an attempt to travel half way around the world for a surprise weekend is a testament to what an incredible person he is.

Of course, that wasn't all.  In addition to our annual houseboat trip on Lake Powell in September, Craig has also given me for my birthday a ping pong table (something we invariably make use of whenever we encounter one in our travels) as well as a Vespa motorbike!  Craig never fails to make my birthdays exceptionally special, but this year he really outdid himself and for that a sincere "anh yeu em". 

I also got a special Skype conference call from my mom, sister and nephew.  They called to wish me well and were curious about what my Vietnamese birthday might hold in store, especially since the monumental occassion hadn't been lost on my co-workers here in Hanoi.   I will attempt to address that now!

First of all, Chi and her close friend, Ms Duong had decided that they'd be hosting a party on my behalf in my apartment after work.  So they've spent several days making preparations, inviting guests and menu planning.  Duong worked at a Japanese restaurant for three years while attending college in London and Chi, of late, has mastered the art of making catfish rolls.  So in addition to decorating, they were busy making homemade sushi and catfish rolls.

Meanwhile, most of my day in the office was fortunately uneventful.  As is customary, however, several members of Air Mekong's Management Team gathered for a moment in my office, wished me a "Happy Birthday" and presented me with a beautiful bouquet of flowers. 

What, exactly, is a guy supposed to say when receiving flowers?  It's quite traditional in Vietnam, but no one clued me into the protocol so I replied with a polite "cam un".  Fortunately, after a few awkward moments, it was decided that we should all get back to work! 

At 6:00pm I was summonsed (that's a word, isn't it?) to my apartment where a group of 25-30 people were waiting.  It was amazing.  The apartment had been decorated with crepe paper and balloons and everyone was busy putting the finishing touches on dinner.

This is about a third of the sushi served.
And Chi's delicious catfish rolls are at top.

First, the food was incredible.  There was enough sushi to serve a Japanese Army and it was absolutely fantastic.  Duong really should consider opening her own sushi restaurant here in Hanoi because what she made was probably the best sushi I've ever had. 

Chi's catfish rolls were equally delicious.  I'm not big on either dill or mayonaise, but wrapped up with fried catfish and served in a springroll wrap, holy cow!  It's definitely a recipe we'll have to work on at home. 

Of course I was between all the food, I was busy trying to hobnob with all my guests.  To have so many folks show up, on a school night, no less, meant so much, especially being so far away from home.

Women in the kitchen busy making...

Men (except Les' wife Val) in the living room busy eating!

I didn't get many pictures, unfortunately, but I understand quite a few have been posted and can be seen on my Facebook page (I hope I don't regret making that reference). 

Between several very cool gifts (which I'll discuss next time) and a cake loaded with 50 candles, it made for an exceptional birthday party. 

To those of you who attended and/or made it possible, thanks a million.  And a special thanks to Chi and Duong for making it all possible.  It's a birthday I'll never forget...even in my aged "post-50" years.