Quiet Sunday morning in Hanoi

Nok-Ten turned out to be a bust, at least here in Hanoi.  It's been raining off and on since last night, but otherwise, I haven't seen anything unusual blow by the 13th floor of my apartment.  :o)

Fortunately, it turned out to be the perfect excuse for a party, so my friend Jerome and his incredible wife, Paula, had Les, his wife, Val and me over last night.  They have a nice 4th floor apartment overlooking the lake here in Tay Ho and just around the corner from my apartment. 

As you may recall, I travelled to Con Dao in May with Jerome and Paula.  They're an exceptional couple and I truly enjoy their company, so it was nice to be invited for some great conversation over wine, cheese, springrolls and dessert. 

Unfortunately, the same storm that made for a perfect get together also resulted in Thanh and I deciding to nix our usual Sunday drive, making for an unusually quiet Sunday morning today.  Fortunately, it gave me a chance to go back to my usual Sunday haunt, the Ochao Tea House down the street.

I had the terrace all to myself all morning and just enjoyed watching the rain move in waves over the lake and city.

This sunnier picture was taken just a couple of minutes later and is looking
north toward my apartment building and down Xuan Dieu Street, the main road in Tay Ho.

Of course, the peaceful setting was made all the better by the two ca phe sua das I had, along with a double serving (not the usual 1.5 slices!) of ham and cheese quiche. 

As I approach the four week mark until I leave Vietnam, it's hard not to reflect on all the things I'll miss and the Ochao Tea House will definitely be one of them.

For the afternoon, I'm planning to head to the gym, then Thanh and I are meeting up at 3pm for some "Bia Hoi" (keyword: bia).  Hopefully Chi will be able to join us later tonight for dinner. 

Tropical Storm Nok-Ten Update

Since there's no weather channel here in Vietnam, I've been forced to rely on my own devices to find out what's up with approaching Tropical Storm Nok-Ten.  At various times it's been stronger, weaker, faster, slower, headed more northerly and headed more southerly than it is now.  Insomuch as this is my first real Tropical Storm, I have no idea what to expect.

Hanoi sits inland from the little dent immediately north of the green storm
representing Nok-Ten. 

Rumor has it there may be a hurricane party tonight, so that sounds like the most prudent course of action so far!

In the meantime, it's a quiet afternoon here in Hanoi.  With it raining off and on and the threat of the storm looming, most everyone is hunkering down for the night.  Fortunately, my friend Tuan and his girlfriend were out and invited me to a very cool restaurant in downtown Hanoi called "1946".

It was tucked away in a back alley just off Cua Bac Street in the Ba Dinh neighborhood of Hanoi.  Inside it was cool, rustic French-ish decor with old, black and white pictures of Hanoi and and traditional chipped pottery dishes.

At this point, I've share with you the basics of Vietnamese cooking, so now it's basically variations on the same theme.  Today was no different, but just interesting enough that I thought I'd share.  And did I say "yum!"?

We started with the usual dish of peanuts.  Shortly after, real potato-looking sweet potato fries arrived, as well as the usual dish of garlic fried greens.  The greens we had today were actually chrysanthemum buds.  They were delicious!

While we were waiting for our next dish, we ordered some coconut wine which is basically rice wine cured inside a coconut for a few days. 

Coconut wine served right out of its own coconut

Next up, a serving of friend pork belly with a tabasco-style dipping sauce.  (The menu actually said "pork stomach"; I guess that sounds more sophisticated).  It wasn't bad; chewy and crunchy all at once!

We were then served "chuka" fish which we ate with fish sauce until they brought us springroll fixin's which included rice noodles, pineapple, star fruit, green banana and, best of all, dill.  Man, I don't know what it is about fried fish and dill, but it's amazingly good.  

Of course at this point, I'm stuffed and thinking what a great meal we've had only to learn, yet again, that what we've eaten so far is just the appetizer.  You'd think after five months here I'd learn to dial the appetite back just a little bit on the likely chance that there will be enough food served to feed a Vietnamese Army.

Our main course was hot pot which I've had several times before.  Today's featured pork ribs and Indian taro, which is a root vegetable of some kind.  I'm not sure what else was in the hot pot, but it was fantastic!  Taro has a tangy flavor and looked a lot like hearts of palm with the same graininess.  I also understand that the plant is both toxic before being cooked and can cause your tongue to itch after eating.  At this point, I can safely say I've felt neither it's toxic effects nor has my tongue itched, but I'll let you know if either changes.  Or at least the later. 

We finished off with a nice glass of iced green tea.  And, yes, I was very full.

Busy Week

Sorry for the absence.  It's been a busy week and, frankly, there hasn't been much to write about.  Worse still, it looks like more of the same this weekend.  Tropical Storm Nok-Ten is making it's way toward North Vietnam and could dump just enough rain to cancel our usual Sunday ride.  Could be just pizza and movies.

In the meantime, I took this picture out my window just a few minutes ago.  It hasn't started storming yet at all, but there was a rainbow, or portion thereof, nonetheless. 

The joys of being a 6

Yesterday was funny. I attended my first ever meeting of the 20th Annual ASEAN Airline Group. The meeting was interesting in that I was one of only three Westerner's in attendance (see proof here):

Ok, so it's obviously not easy to see in the picture above who is and who is not a native Asian.  But that's not important.  And that's the funny part.

I know it's hard to tell amongst the 100+ participants and all, but you may have noticed one thing kinda stands out.  Hint: Among the men in attendance, can you pick the one man not in a suit?  Or tie?  Or white shirt?

Yes, that would be me.  Upper right hand corner.  Suitless, tieless and blue-shirted.

It's not like I really had a choice in the matter.  I didn't bring a single tie with me to Vietnam.  And, after four months of not needing or using my blazer once, I sent it back with Craig to the US two weeks ago. 

Apparently, "business casual" hasn't quite caught on here in Singapore.  And for someone who hates to stand out in the crowd, this was just ever-so-fitting.  The best part is, all I could do is laugh. 

The conference itself was pretty, shall we say, "dry".  We did enjoy dinner and the view at the Equinox Restaurant on the 72nd floor of a nearby skyscraper. 

What I didn't enjoy so much was the karaoke afterward.  Being held hostage on the 72nd floor, there was no easy way to escape. 

I joined the Vietnamese delegation in singing the 70s classic "If Living is without you" by Harry Nilsson (which you can listen to here if you're so inclined.  Note the low voiced, high notes in the video.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ATg8CdRD68E And, no, we didn't sing this so well).

I'm going to miss an awful lot of things when I leave Asia.  Karaoke won't be one of them.

Back to Hanoi tomorrow!  (And if you're wondering what a "6" is, Google "Enneagram").

A good, long walk

I hadn't expected to post much, if anything, while here in Singapore.  The city's about as exciting as a visit to LA, so not much intriguing around here to share.  But it turned out better than expected.

I was lucky enough to be invited by Marine, the representative here from Embraer (the same company that makes SkyWest's Brasilias), on a hike this morning.  Hike?  In Singapore?  Isn't that like going on a hike in New York?

Apparently not.  We met at the hotel at 8 and took a taxi to MacRitchie Reservoir where we met three of Marine's friends.   

MacRitchie is a beautiful nature preserve on Singapore Island with a rich, lush jungle full of monkeys and is Singapore's oldest Reservoir dating back to the 1860s.  The route marked in black above was precisely the route we took. Our walk through the Jungle and around the reservoir was nearly 10 miles long and took nearly four hours. 

Sorry for the blurry pics; it was incredibly humid and my
cell camera fogged up in my pocket all morning!

It was a great way to spend the morning and get some exercise.

Equally as interesting was the time spent with Marine and her friends.  Marine is French, her mother lives in Senegal and she's lived in Singapore for three years.  She speaks excellent English, has been to Africa 20 times or so and considers it her second home.

Her friend Elias is also French and is PayPal's head of Asia Marketing.  After leaving France, he spent two years in Barcelona, five years in Buenos Aires where he married his wife before moving to Miami where they spent eight years before moving to Singapore.  They've spent five years hear and expect to leave shortly for the Middle East (either Dubai or Beirut) before "retiring" in Sao Paulo, Brazil.  They've been here five years with their four kids who each speak four languages.  Perfectly. 

Both of Marine's two other friends had equally impressive global resumes and each spoke at least two other languages.  Just like Chi, who speaks three languages fluently, has lived in both Europe and Asia and has friends all over the world, these people are truly global citizens.  Craig and I have met others just like them in our travels and I couldn't help but think that Americans for the most part are, by comparison, almost reclusive.  And it made me appreciate that much more the opportunity I've had to live in Vietnam the last five months and to see as much of the world as I have.  I'm truly a lucky man.

After our hike, we went to Little India and had some awesome Chicken Tikka Masala.  Then I took a nap.  I am 50 after all!  :o)

An Indian Temple in Little India in downtown Singapore

Singapore

I'm heading to Singapore this afternoon to attend the 20th Annual ASEAN Airlines Meeting starting Monday morning.  I'm not entirely sure why I'm going other than to let the rest of Southeast Asia know that Air Mekong exists and "to make a good impression".  So we'll see how that goes.

Singapore is like little slice of California plopped right into the center of Asia.  It's warm, efficient and spotless.  Obviously all the global American chains are here...Starbucks, McDonalds, Chilis, Hooters, Borders, 7-11.  But you can also find California Pizza Kitchen, Swensens and Robinson's Department Stores - all of which seem uniquely Californian (even though they're not necessarily, these days).

50.

Most of you reading already know this, but yesterday was my birthday.  And a rather significant one at that.  The big 5-0.  I'm not sure how that's even possible since I can't yet grow a full beard. 

But according to my mother, it's true.  And all the more fitting to celebrate the event a full 12 hours earlier than normal by virtue of my being in Vietnam instead of at home in Madison. 

First, for those of you who've wished me "Happy Birthday" on Facebook or via email, thank you.  I so appreciate your remembering and sending me a short note.  Xin Cam Un.

The celebration actually started the night before my birthday when, during my nightly Skype call with Craig, I learned that he had actually attempted to surprise me by meeting me in Singapore this weekend!  (I leave tomorrow to spend four days at a conference there).  Unfortunately, the schedule would have given him all of about six hours in the country between midnight and 6am before he'd have to turn back around and head home, so it didn't come to pass.  More than anything, though, the thought that he'd make an attempt to travel half way around the world for a surprise weekend is a testament to what an incredible person he is.

Of course, that wasn't all.  In addition to our annual houseboat trip on Lake Powell in September, Craig has also given me for my birthday a ping pong table (something we invariably make use of whenever we encounter one in our travels) as well as a Vespa motorbike!  Craig never fails to make my birthdays exceptionally special, but this year he really outdid himself and for that a sincere "anh yeu em". 

I also got a special Skype conference call from my mom, sister and nephew.  They called to wish me well and were curious about what my Vietnamese birthday might hold in store, especially since the monumental occassion hadn't been lost on my co-workers here in Hanoi.   I will attempt to address that now!

First of all, Chi and her close friend, Ms Duong had decided that they'd be hosting a party on my behalf in my apartment after work.  So they've spent several days making preparations, inviting guests and menu planning.  Duong worked at a Japanese restaurant for three years while attending college in London and Chi, of late, has mastered the art of making catfish rolls.  So in addition to decorating, they were busy making homemade sushi and catfish rolls.

Meanwhile, most of my day in the office was fortunately uneventful.  As is customary, however, several members of Air Mekong's Management Team gathered for a moment in my office, wished me a "Happy Birthday" and presented me with a beautiful bouquet of flowers. 

What, exactly, is a guy supposed to say when receiving flowers?  It's quite traditional in Vietnam, but no one clued me into the protocol so I replied with a polite "cam un".  Fortunately, after a few awkward moments, it was decided that we should all get back to work! 

At 6:00pm I was summonsed (that's a word, isn't it?) to my apartment where a group of 25-30 people were waiting.  It was amazing.  The apartment had been decorated with crepe paper and balloons and everyone was busy putting the finishing touches on dinner.

This is about a third of the sushi served.
And Chi's delicious catfish rolls are at top.

First, the food was incredible.  There was enough sushi to serve a Japanese Army and it was absolutely fantastic.  Duong really should consider opening her own sushi restaurant here in Hanoi because what she made was probably the best sushi I've ever had. 

Chi's catfish rolls were equally delicious.  I'm not big on either dill or mayonaise, but wrapped up with fried catfish and served in a springroll wrap, holy cow!  It's definitely a recipe we'll have to work on at home. 

Of course I was between all the food, I was busy trying to hobnob with all my guests.  To have so many folks show up, on a school night, no less, meant so much, especially being so far away from home.

Women in the kitchen busy making...

Men (except Les' wife Val) in the living room busy eating!

I didn't get many pictures, unfortunately, but I understand quite a few have been posted and can be seen on my Facebook page (I hope I don't regret making that reference). 

Between several very cool gifts (which I'll discuss next time) and a cake loaded with 50 candles, it made for an exceptional birthday party. 

To those of you who attended and/or made it possible, thanks a million.  And a special thanks to Chi and Duong for making it all possible.  It's a birthday I'll never forget...even in my aged "post-50" years. 

Did I happen to mention...?

That the Colgate Toothpaste I bought at the FiviMart not long ago is Green Tea Flavored?  With Sparkles?

(Note sparkles)

Merry Christmas, Part II

Eventually we arrived at the Park Visitor's Center. The park cooperates with zoo's in both Columbus, Ohio and Frankfurt, Germany, so there's quite a lot of research being done there.

Roadway through the park

The park itself was hot, humid and all jungle. There were surprisingly few people there, perhaps due to it's relative remote location. There were, however, several very nice guest houses which looked to be a great way to enjoy the park for more than just a day or two.

While in the park, we hiked to Chrystal Palace Cave, did a second, pretty intense hike and visited the park's Rescue Garden (which is where most of the cooperative research is done and where the park takes in injuried wild animals, primarily monkeys, and assists them during their recovery before releasing them back into the wild). Unfortunately, there was no guide available to take us through the Rescue Center, so we only got to see the monkeys they kept there from afar.

Aside from the Rescue Garden and the cave, the park has a couple of huge noteworthy trees. The first was along the side of the road and, according to a sign nearby, the tree is nearly 150 tall and more than 8 feet around.

The sign also made clear that this was a very "big tree".

Our hike took us to the second tree of note in Cuc Phuong National Park, involved a six kilometer loop and included a stop at the "1,000 Year Old Tree".

A second visitors center

(My shirt is soaked and at that point,  it hadn't rained a drop.
Suffice it to say, it was very hot.)

Thanh said this sign said something about taking care of the park.

It was a beautiful day to do some hiking and be outside.  Amazingly, there were very few people in the park so it felt like we had it all to ourselves.

Around 4:30pm, we began the long trip back home.  Along the way, we encountered another traveller who was taking Wilbur on a trip of his own (and my guess is not a good trip). 

Our trip back to Hanoi was spectacular.  We travelled through a beautiful valley full of limestone karsts and green rice paddies as far as the eye could see.  The sun was low in the sky and it was so peaceful.  Unfortunately, since we were using my cell phone for GPS guidance, it died shortly after leaving the park, so I wasn't able to get pictures of the most beautiful portion of the trip.



Making the trip even more spectacular was a late evening thunderstorm north of Hanoi.  The sky was filled with huge bolts of lightening which lit up the sky.

Unfortunately, that same storm made for some interesting driving, especially once the sun set.  We drove back to Hanoi on a small, two lane road which was rain soaked and partially flooded.  Between that, the darkness and way too many fast-moving heavy trucks, the drive back was pretty stressful.  We were able to dodge the rain until we actually got back to Hanoi.  Just as we arrived in the city, it started to pour, so our timing was actually pretty good.

It was another great Sunday trip and I'm so grateful to Thanh and Van for spending the time each weekend to share with me the beauty of their country.

Merry Christmas!

Thanh and I had decided earlier in the week that we'd make our longest trip yet on Sunday, this time to Cuc Phuong National Park, south of Hanoi.  Thanh's girlfriend, Van, joined us as well (which I think is a true test of love; sitting on the back of a scooter like she did yesterday, for a good 6-7 hours, can't be all that fun.  Even moreso when you consider that she doesn't speak English to fully enjoy my charmingness).


View Larger Map

We stopped on our way out of town for our usual breakfast of pho bo. And, as usual, it was delicious.

Then began the one of two lowlights of the journey, our trip south on AH1, the main highway south of of Hanoi.  Fortunately, being early Sunday morning, traffic wasn't nearly as bad as usual and it wasn't yet hot, so the 90 minute drive to our exit wasn't too bad.

The road we took after leaving the freeway was a small rural two-lane affair.  I got stuck behind this mini-truck which was hauling coal, lumps of which kept dropping off as he bumped along.  

Along the way, we crossed a large river which looked no deeper than a bathtub.  On it was this enormous barge swinging a wide left in what looked like an impossibly narrow channel underneath the bridge. 

And on the other side of the bridge was this man on his little boat, taking it all in.

Of course, we were parched given our harrowing freeway drive and it being Sunday morning and all, so we decided to stop for a ca phe sua da.  We travelled a bit before turning into a shop which had a "Trung Nguyen" sign, since it's apparently the best coffee in Vietnam (which will be handy information when it comes time to load up on Vietnamese coffee before coming home next month). 

Little did we know when we stopped, however, that they'd be celebrating Christmas (aka Kinh Chao Quy Khach!) inside. 

Christmas (the retail event; not the religious holiday) has become extremely popular here over the last couple of years.  Les says it's almost like New York City there are so many Christmas decorations on display.  Apparently holiday business for this place was so good they decided to see if it might spill over into January...or July.

We hopped back on our scooters and continued toward the park.  Along the way, someone was herding a flock of ducklings along the road.  There were a couple of hundred on both sides and they were pretty cute.

At the next town we came too, there was some an interesting take on drying corn.  It looked like each pile was covered with a cow pie, but there was no trace of a cow, much less one who could make its deposits quite so neat and orderly.  I'll have to ask Thanh if he has any idea what this was or why it was being done.  In the meantime, I'll be staying away from dried corn for the time being.

(More dried corn...without the "topping")

Eventually we arrived at Cuc Phuong National Park, Vietnam's first national park and the nation's largest nature preserve.   I'll have more about that tomorrow.